Zaina's Zany Adventures
Egypt and Beyond * Installment 4, Part 2
The Festival: Shopping and The Festival Workshops

Front Hall Shopping Lobby
Shopping at the Ahlan Wa Sahlan Festival
So, the next day, we were off in the morning to the
experience of shopping at the festival.
We of course had built in enough time to have the full on costume
shopping experience in between our workshop sessions. The festival does have it all in this regard; everything from
music and instruments to the full array of costumes from the best designers in
Egypt. Hip scarves, cover ups,
jewelry, canes, and so much more.
You have several days in which to shop and I found myself going back to
the same spots. I purchased my name
in Arabic script and my favorite necklace from Memo’s case. I have had more compliments on this one
necklace than just about any other piece of jewelry I have ever worn. A scarab nestled inside an ankh. Oberon
and I found more hip scarves (as if we didn’t already have enough from the
Khan), bra/belt sets for students, more exotic oils, perfume bottles, just more
“stuff”. I was beginning to get
concerned about how we were going to get everything home – I mean, this was
just the beginning of the trip. We
still had a full cruise and a trip to Istanbul to go yet and already I was
spilling over. Admittedly, at the
end of the trip, several in our group did have to purchase additional
suitcases. The suggestion of
putting one suitcase inside of another empty one traveling “to” Egypt still did
not seem to be providing enough room.

Long Hall Shopping and Still More Upstairs
My Design Experience with Amira el Kattan

Zaina and Amira el Kattan
Quite sadly, there was very little available with all the
hundreds of vendors that was long enough for this nearly 6 foot tall woman on
any of those tables. BUT, Astryd
de Michelle had told me that not only was
Amira el Kattan (owner of Pharonics of Egypt Costumes – probably the
best made costumes in the business) in attendance at the show, but she was
there vending as well. So once I
finished the jewelry and trinket shopping by day 5 of the festival I went
straight to Amira for measuring and a designing experience that had me beyond
excited. Amira actually has a
sizeable room in which she works from at the festival. She has several seamstresses working on
site to make alterations to costuming that is available right there. It is an amazing thing to see. Having your measurements taken is even
more amazing. You are measured
from stem to stern to assure the perfect fit. I had brought a picture with me from a magazine that I have
been holding onto for a few years.
This was the first costume I wanted and we worked on that one from that
picture, choosing colors, lace, etc.
I explained to her that I like elegant costuming with lots of
rhinestones and less hanging fringe – AND everything asymmetrical. So, when she began to draw the second
costume, based on a design that was in my head and no picture in front of me to
go from, I was completely blown away.
HOW DID SHE KNOW that is what I wanted? HOW? Because
she is Amira, she is unique herself, and it seems she can take one look at the
dancer and know her. Seemingly she walks the dancer move and walk into the
room, and just has a sense of what looks and works for her. I know hands down I would have a
costume/gown that no one else would ever have. This was one of the most amazing experiences.
Oberon as well sat down with Amira for a design session
right after me. She in turn
repeated “how did she just know what I wanted”? It is an amazing thing to experience.
We were not able to get back to her before leaving Cairo for
a fitting which she prefers to do with these one of a kind special designs, but
after some conversation, she agreed to ship it and hopefully there will be few
alterations needed. Although going
back to Cairo for that fitting seems closer today than it did a year ago.
Memo's Booth - Next to Asuite (Tulle) DesignerThe last day of the festival netted me a beautiful Asuite
(Talle) Kaftan.
I real prize.
This is not the typical “new asuite
that has little metal, and flimsy fabric, but rather a heavy mesh with
intricate full patterns.
This new
designer has studied the old product extensively to offer a quality product
that any of us would be proud to own.
I happily handed over a substantial amount for this lovely piece.
Workshops at the FestivalRaqia Hassan with Zaina and Oberon
Our choices in workshop instruction seemed easy for the most
part. The festival runs two to
three workshops at the same time, giving a very large selection. Dina and Raqui were hands down my first
choices. The lines outside of the
workshop halls were long with pushing and shoving at times; with dancers who
pretend not to understand the rules and will walk to the front of the line and
begin shoving or attempting to bribe their way into the room. Even with good security it is difficult
to stop this process and realistically this is the tip of the iceburg on the
rude-o-meter with some groups. We
happened to be in the very front of the line for Dina’s workshop, waiting nearly
an hour there. So in my opinion,
we showed up on time, we should be able to be up in front of the stage,
right? Wrong! Once inside, we staked out our spot,
standing there and patiently waiting for Dina’s arrival – after all we were a
little early. But those who came
in much later simply walked right in front of us as though we didn’t exist, and
refused to move. I don’t do well
with this kind of behavior as I am sure some can imagine, but my angst didn’t
hold a candle to a couple of young women who had come in with us and were
literally calling out the girls who were attempting to push us all out of the
way. The late-comers flat did not
care who was there first, who waited, etc. They were standing up front no matter who they upset clearly
not caring in the least how they were perceived. As frustrating as this was, taking a class from Dina was
still high on my “exciting things to do this week” list.
Now, I want to set the record straight here. There was an unfortunate comment in
another publication about this workshop, from someone who was not in attendance
and going on hearsay. So,
let me tell you how it really went – because I was in fact there. Dina was five minutes late. Not by her choice, but if you have ever
had to try to get through those hallways of merchants leaving a 3 foot wide
walkway full of shoppers and that many people coming in and out, well, not
something that can be done quickly.
As well, people were crowding the door to the workshop room, so she
couldn’t even get in to her own workshop.
Once she did get in she was all smiles and then the process of working
her way through a crowd of adoring fans took a few more minutes. As soon as she hit the stage however,
she began teaching the choreography.
She would periodically stop, giggle a little, and tried offering
explanation of movement in several ways.
About midway through the workshop she stepped on a very large staple in
the carpeting on the stage. She
spoke to her crew in Arabic, showing them and us the staple, laughed and with
bloodied foot went on – no complaints, no tantrum – all professional. She had no less than 150 people in the
workshop – and she worked very hard to assure everyone in the room could hear
and see. It was a joy to
participate.
Raqia’s workshop was equally as rewarding with the exception
that by that point King Tut’s revenge had hit me full on (I know – TMI – but Note
9 will provide a solution to the ancient curse. A solution you need to know and take advantage of as soon as
you arrive in Cairo). Because I
was continually needing to leave the room, I was grateful for her particular
teaching style of “repetition”.
The ease with which she could repeat the movement not missing a bit of
the choreo was fabulous. She is a
little dynamo and with that mega-watt smile turned on you can’t help but smile
with her. She gives the
participants a sense of warmth and humor that few other instructors have. While she taught choreography from the
stage, she as well would come down onto the main floor and work from the center
of a circle so that more of us had a better view of what she was doing. One participant asked her if she was
performing over the weekend which caused us all to echo the question. I was sad to hear she would not be
dancing on stage – she is such a delight to see in her teaching persona. What a gift it would have been to see
her perform.

Zaina -Too Pooped (pun) to go on
Ghawazi Dancers (Sisters)
Taking a workshop from these ladies is truly a
challenge. Not only is the
movement oddly off (but really on) the rhythm, but they speak no English and
give no instruction. So, it is
absolutely a follow the leader scenario.
They would dance a couple of songs, we followed along and then they
would stop for five or so, then start all over again. I would undoubtedly take their workshop again, as they are
the last performers in a long line of family Ghawazi dancers - - the
opportunity to be there is one I am grateful to have.
Each night, after the workshop sessions, there was an
evening show – remember – a show in which one only needs to sign up in order to
be able to perform in. Also there
is a competition associated with the festival. I wish I had more information about this, we did not attend
and as a competition owner/producer I feel that I missed out on an opportunity
to both compete and see how Raqia conducts this event. The last evening of the festival has a
closing night Gala in which most of the workshop instructors and I believe the
winner of the competition perform.
This is where the benefit of staying at the Mena House where the festival
is taking place is so very important.
Since we had to go back to our hotel via shuttle, change and regroup,
and with the daily frustrations that I have not divulged here, we were less
inclined to go back outside and wait again for the shuttle back to the Mena
House. So it is with regret that we
did miss these extra shows and the competition.

Memo and Zaina
Installment 4, Part 3 – The Ahlan Wa Sahlan Festival,
The Famed
“Mena House” and Our New Friend “Memo”