Costume Alteration How-To – Halter to Conventional Straps

By:  Dawn Devine “Davina”

One of the wardrobe staples in many dancers’ wardrobes is a gold and silver bedlah.  This most chameleon bra and belt set can be paired with virtually any color skirt/veil combination making this a versatile foundation for literally hundreds of different looks. It is so basic that troupes around the globe select it as a unifying costume element.  So when a friend approached me with her new gold and silver set I was impressed by her strategic wardrobing choice.  This particular bedlah set is gorgeously encrusted with three- dimensional beading, and gold hologram sequin. She was lucky that the belt fit like a dream, the cups of this bra fit well and the band was perfectly sized.

Original Bra

However, the halter styling of the bra had straps that were far too short to fit around her neck limiting her ability to lift her arms over her head.  Although it’s good rule of thumb for a costume to fit snuggly, this bra was digging painfully into the back of her neck.  The solution – convert this bra from halter to conventional straps.  Since this costume was an Egyptian import, we had a few accessory pieces to work with and treat as raw materials create a new strap.

After looking at her accessory pieces, I suggested converting an outdated crown-like headpiece into a new left shoulder strap. 

                                                      Head Band

The crown featured a sweeping point, which we experimented with until we found a shoulder position we liked.  During our fitting, we decided that turning the point away from the neck would form an attractive mock epaulette.  The existing left strap would be removed and added to the right shoulder strap to create much-needed length.

To begin the renovation process, I marked the position of my work with safety pins.  The crown was marked to indicate where it would attach to both the bra-cup and the band.  You can see these pins in photo 2.  Once I’m comfortable with all of my marks, I proceed, unpicking the lining in the areas where I will be working.  In some ready-made costumes, the beading goes through to the lining, so investigate and be careful!    

Lining Pulled Back

Once the lining was pulled back, I removed the left strap and attached it to the right.  I am careful to fold under any raw edges, so that it does not fray through my stitches and pop undone during a performance. 

                                                  Strap Extension

I use a combination of whipstitches and slip stitches to really nail the two pieces together.  In this photo, you can see some of the original stitching is in white, my stitching new stitches in yellow.

It is my philosophy to conserve costumes as much as possible.  Some future dancer may want to restore the costume to its original configuration as a halter with a crown.  So instead of simply cutting the end of the crown shorter, I choose to fold the end under into the lining.

Folding the end under

Because the beads can press into the shoulder painfully, I add a layer of soft fabric to protect skin against the beads.  This fabric needed some cushion, such as fleece, velvet, or in the case of my project, vellux.

Adding a cushion layer

I laid the crown onto the vellux and simply traced the shape.  This interlining was applied to the beaded surface with a quick whipstitch.

Next, I folded the end of the former crown under and then tucked excess lining inside as well, forming a multi-layer sandwich. I then use a combination of whipstitch and slip stitch to sew around the opening.

New Strap with alteration sealed shut

Note - Before you sew everything closed, be sure to double check that you’ve left at least an inch of extra length, so you can insert the newly converted strap between the cup and lining of the bra – or your band will be too short!

Once the new strap is finished the transformation is nearly complete.  I slip the straps into their new positions.  The left shoulder gets pinned in to the top of the cup and the back band.  The right strap just needs to be positioned on the back band. Once the straps are firmly attached with sturdy stitching, seal up the lining and you’re done! 

The final result - a more comfortable and better fitting bra.  

                                              Final Results

Dawn Devine ~ Davina is an author, costumer and dance instructor living in Silicon Valley.  She has written several books on costume design and construction including the seminal “Costuming from the Hip” and the best selling “Embellished Bras.”  Visit her website to read more about her books, classes and costuming.  http://www.davina.us

Photos by Jerry Case of Ibexa Press – http://www.ibexa.com