They Say it is All in the Eyes,

Mirrors to the Soul!

By Zaina Hart

     Times have certainly changed where make-up is concerned.  Color has changed drastically and product - well, there is the good, bad and the gooey.  As well, our faces change; what worked five, ten or twenty years ago may no longer do the job.  Our eyes and the skin around them changes more than anything on our face.  Then, there are the venues to consider - smoke and grease in the restaurants in which we perform, environment and its toxins, sweat, big stage, little close up stage, etc.  I have had to learn how to apply my shadows, concealers, foundations, and liners better than ever before. 

     I am often asked how it is that I have kept my skin in the shape it is, after so many years in the sun, and so many years with heavy stage makeup.  Simple techniques ladies - simple.  Ex:  Moisurize your skin as soon as you are out of the shower, when skin is still damp to lock in the moisture.

     Lets start first with the eyes, some simple ways to apply shadows, liners, false eyelashes, etc. 

     As always, start with a clean canvas.  If you have used moisturizer on your eyes, you will want to blot this away before applying shadows, liners, etc. to avoid that crease of yuk we can get with too much stuff.  You will need:

     *  Three shades of color, two can be lighter colors, one will be

         darker (black, brown, navy).

     *  Mascara (if for stage, black or darkest brown is best)

     *  Liner, pencil and liquid

     *  Applicators and brushes (small brushes for feathering and   

         pointed sponge tip applicators for applying shadows).

     *  Q-tips and toothpicks for mistakes

     *  False eyelashes and tweezers for applying them

(1)   Try not to rub your eyes.  Years ago (30 plus) I was told to use the finger next to the pinky and gently stroke from the outer part of the eye to the inside (this provides a lighter touch than other fingers).  Skin above and below the eye is thinner than the rest of the skin on our face so to preserve this skin we should treat it gently. 

(2)    In Illustration (2) please note the shadow example.  Lighter or base color is the softest shading, contouring color is the next shade, and dramatic color in the darkest shade.  Here is one of the most important tips:  Direct your color from the corners (inside and out) of your eye to the center of your eye, Illustration (3).  Ever wonder how you managed to have your eyes shadowed all the way to your ears?  If you always direct your applicators to the outside, you have no control of placement.  If you use loose powder (my preference has always been cake powder), you will be flicking powder to heck and gone with each stroke of your brush. You will use what I call the “V” technique when you apply the countouring and darkest shades.  Start by drawing a “V” from the outside of the eye to the center, then you are going to fill in this area with your two darker colors.  Note in Illustration (3), the direction of the arrows. 

(3)  Tip:  After my first two colors, I use my lining pencil to begin the darker color “V”.  Now, pay close attention here.  As we age, the skin around eyes begins to drop/sag.  The angle in which we draw this line will change over time.  If you are young, the line can be drawn at less of an “UP” angle and more of an outside angle.  If you are older, you will want to consider drawing this line in a more “UP” angle.  If you have skin that is looser/dropping, and you draw this line to the outside of the eye and not up, as you open your eyes and look straight forward, your line may be below your   eyelid.  Not a good look to have your liner there.  So as you look at Illustration (3), you may want to lift those arrows UP by 1/8 to 1/4 inch in a more upwards angle.  Try it and see what happens, see if it changes the look. You will also want to line underneath the eye.  Again, start at the outside, meeting up with the line you have drawn above, and simply slide underneath to about 1/4” from the inside corner of your eye. You will want to keep this line thin - not too thick.  And leaving the inside corner of your eye with no liner, tends to open up the eye, separating your eyes a bit more.

(4)  Tip:  I generally will use the same color pencil as color of shadow #3 - the darkest.  Then I cover the pencil liner (a creme) with the shadow, and then fill in the rest of the area. See Illustration (4).  This will somewhat “set” your liner so it doesn’t slide off your eyes when it gets warm or when you begin to sweat.  It will give you a bit more time so-to-speak.  Now, you can go back and fill in the darkest “V” with that same dark color.  If you find you have too much shadow outside of your line - usea  Q-tip to draw the new line, removing excess from outside the area.  Do not rub, draw out instead. 

(5)  Tip:  Now it is time to set your “Falsies” (I just love to say that).  Get your false eyelashes, tweezers and toothpicks.  I use two pair of tweezers because of the length of my nails, just too hard to hold and keep the glue off my nails.  With one pair of tweezers, hold lash at center, apply a thin strip of glue.  If you apply too much glue (easily done), use the toothpick to remove NOT the Q-tip which will leave stringers of cotton to get into your eyes.  Now comes the Jaleh technique (she showed me this one and it is invaluable); grab your lash on each end and roll it up and down like a roller coaster.  This spreads more evenly the glue on the line of the lash.  This is where I need two pair of tweezers - to hold the ends of the lash.  Next, with one pair of tweezers, grab lash back in the middle, then place the center of lash to the center of lash lid, now use the opposit end of your tweezers to tamp down the lash at outside and inside.  Walla, you now have your lash on.  Now you can add your mascara to the bottom lashes and a bit to the top, trying not to put too much on the false eyelashes.

(6)  Tip:  Once you have both lashes on, you can go back with your liquid liner to further enhance the line just above the lashes.  Don’t extend too far out (and remember LINE FROM OUTSIDE TO INSIDE), and too much liquid is too much liquid to mix with sweat and run down your face.

(7)  Tip:  Once this is all done you can start on your eyebrows.  Don’t forget to include your brows - if you have too much, find a day spa and have them waxed to shape.  If you don’t have enough - - we will fill them in.  Note the shape in the Illustrations.  This gives an outside lift to the eyes - - dramatic and pretty.  I use powder for my brows, not pencil.  Packed powder is available from various companies, and I am pretty picky about this one, because too much brow is simply too much brow.  My preference is Anastasia, “Brow-Express”.  It comes with forms if you need them, two shades of color (I use dark browns not blacks), brown bone highlighter and wax to set the color.  You simply can’t go wrong with this stuff.

(8)  Tip:  Now that your brows, shades, liners and false eyelashes are all on, you can go back in and add the finishing touches.  Glitter can be added just below the brow.  Or, if on a large stage, and it is somewhat dark, you can add blitter in the line of your eyes - - back to that “V” which will draw light to your eyes.  Not too much now, but just enough it pulls in light.  As well, “white” liquid liner, from the inside corner of your eye (Illustration 4) above and below, about 1/4 inch in, will OPEN the eye, giving a wonderful illussion of big drammatic eyes.

(9)  Tip:  Often I will add long bindies under my eyes, from outside corner, in the same line as the V, about 1/2 inch from the bottom of my lower eye lid.  Also drammatic and pulls light if you use the kind with lots of crystals.

Again, eyes are so important - - they really do show our emotion and involvement with the audience.  Enhancing, and not hiding them is so important.  If you have questions, or if you are looking for a specialized Dramatic Stage Makeup class, please feel free to contact me at zaina@zainahart.com.