(Printed in the 4/2004 issue of The Belly Dancer Magazine)
Fringe Benefits - Styles of Fringe
One of the oldest methods used to decorate costumes is fringe. Every culture that I’ve researched has used fringe to decorate their clothing, homes, or worn by their animals. There are depictions of fringe on costumes in Egyptian tombs, a testament to the long history of fringe. But what does fringe actually do? What kinds of fringe are available for dancers today? How does one integrate the fringe into the overall costume?
Bottom line, fringe accents and enhances the dance. It serves as a visual amplifier, making subtle moves look bigger, and big moves look gigantic. Fringe catches the eye of the viewer through this movement and draws attention to the parts of the body from which the fringe is suspended. Fringe can make a dancer’s movements visible to the audience member in the back of the restaurant or theater. For the Middle Eastern belly dancer, fringe is essential for performance costumes, so even the viewer in the back row can see the subtlest shimmies.
In the world of fringe, there are basically four main styles widely used by dancers today. Each type has its own characteristic, style and flavor, and while no style is the best, choosing the right type of fringe for your costume and dance style will enhance your overall look.
Chainette
The least expensive and most widely available style of fringe is rayon chainette. This fringe is made from looped rayon thread that is integrated into the header, which can either be plain or decorative. This style of fringe is available in most fabric, craft and upholstery stores and is used by crafters, costumers and interior designers. It comes in a wide variety of colors that tend to change every few years to suit changing tastes and styles in interior design. It is generally available in even lengths of 2”, 4”, 6” and beyond.
Chainette can be used on a variety of different style costumes including cabaret, gypsy, and tribal. It is inexpensive, lightweight, and washable. Because it is less expensive than it’s beaded counter parts, and quicker to apply than hand-made fringe, it is an excellent choice for novice costumers, dancers who need a “one shot” themed costume and for large troupes who want to keep costs down. Chainette is also quiet, which is good for garments worn in classes and workshops.
Egyptian Fringe
Egyptian fringe is made from glass beads. Seed beads, rocailles, and bugles of various lengths create a very shiny embellishment that moves and sways, catching the light.
Egyptian fringe can be expensive. It is heavy, and though made primarily of glass beads and plastic pailettes, this fringe style can be quite noisy if metal beads or coins are added as accents. It is a rich, elegant, showgirl look. It is worn on high-glamour cabaret-style costumes. If you have more money than time, it’s best to buy beaded fringe, as it can be complicated and tedious to make.
Fringe making is a cottage industry in Egypt and Turkey, and the quality of the fringe will vary, even from the same supplier. Each strand of beads is strung onto individual threads, which are then either sewn onto a cord or braided together to create the heading. It comes in a wide variety of colors and because each piece is hand-crafted, there are many shapes and styles to choose from. If you are going for the ultimate in glamour, Egyptian style fringe is worth the effort.
Oriental Fringe (Asiatic)
Less expensive than Egyptian fringe and more widely available, Oriental fringe is industrially made in the Far East. It is composed of glass or plastic beads, which are strung on thread and then sewn onto a flat band. The strands of beads are more widely spaced than Egyptian fringe, giving it a less lush appearance. This style of fringe is also more widely available than handcrafted versions, and can be found in upscale fabric stores and design shops.
Oriental fringe can be layered to create a lusher, fuller look approximating that of Egyptian fringe. This style of fringe can make chainette fringe sparkle, adding flash and glamour without adding a major expense to the costume budget. Oriental fringe is an inexpensive alternative, and good for students, first-time costumes, or for any dancer on a budget.
Homemade Fringe
If you have more time than cash, you may want to try making your own beaded fringe. Making your own allows you to design the total look of your costume, using beads that perfectly match the rest of the costume. Making your own gives you, the designer, more latitude in placement and shape, allowing you to craft different hemlines and work accent beads into the fringe exactly where you want it.
Use heavy thread such as upholstery grade nylon thread, specialty beading threads with heavy weights, or even dental floss, which is sturdy, inexpensive, and easy to find. Making your fringe on a piece of tape will allow you to position it precisely on your costume, but also let you reuse it if your costume wears out – you can simply move the fringe to another costume. Some dancers prefer to stitch their handmade fringe directly onto the costume. This allows for curved rows of fringe, precise placement, and helps create a custom look. Just remember, hand beading fringe takes a lot of time, so plan your costume accordingly.
Fringe Placement
When you are designing your costume, carefully consider fringe placement. Where you put your fringe will affect the appearance when still and posed as well as when you move. Traditionally, performers have made costumes that feature fringe on the bra and belt to maximize the movement in these areas. Today’s costume designers are place fringe practically everywhere from headdress to hem. When designing or purchasing a costume, look for fringe positions that accentuate your body shape and movement vocabulary.
Emphasizing your Movements
When you are designing your costume, consider the way fringe moves, and how it can best support your specific movement style. Short dense fringe looks like dynamite for energetic shimmies. Longer fringe, 6” to 10” will emphasize smooth undulations and twisting movements. Super long fringe, 10” or more doesn’t accentuate shimmies, but sprays out elegantly during dramatic turns and spins. Any of the four major styles of fringe comes in an assortment of lengths and styles, so no matter what style of costume you are designing or buying, you will find fringe lengths to suit your style.
