The Great Battle of the Breast ©
By: Zaina Hart
(Original printing in March 2002 issue of Jareeda Magazine)
Additions and changes have been made
No matter what they are called (Over the Shoulder Boulder Holder, Titslinger, etc.), the Bra is here to stay. At least it is in our business. Of course the Choli may replace it for some dancers, however, the beautifully sequin and rhinestone decorated “Belly Dance Bra” is a basic part of most dancer’s costume collection.
Before I get into the more serious construction or mechanics and ideas and misconceptions about those Belly Dance Bras I would like to offer up some history and “Tidbits” about our love/hate relationship with the “Bra”.
Some of you may have heard Bette Midler argue in her song that poor Otto Titsling was denied his moment of fame as the inventor of the bra by Lord Brassiere who stepped in and stole the idea from poor Otto. However, that is not the real history of the bra, which is far more extensive. And even Oprah has gotten into the “correct” fit issue of the bra - - check that out at the link at the bottom. But the entire show was devoted to “how to get the best fit and look” titled “Oprah’s Bra and Swimsuit Intervention”.
BRA History - It goes something like this:
In approximately 2000/2500B.C. Minoan women living on the island of Crete were the first identified to wear a bra-like contraption “to push their breasts up and out, baring their chest entirely.
In the 1500’s padding was used to create a fuller bust-line by women by binding bits of silky cloth to their chests (these are the women who invented “stuffing”).
In the 1550’s, Catherine de Medicis, wife of King Henri II of France, enforced a ban on thick waists at court attendances. She started over 350 years of whalebones, steel rods and midriff torture. These “devices” were designed to narrow an adult woman’s waist to as little as 10 inches (yeeeouch) while forcing the “breasts” up to knew heights.
In 1789 bare-breasted women were used to symbolize the new Republic during France’s Revolution, “Vive La France”. And with the immensely popular “Empire” dresses of the 1790’s came the appreciation of the bust as a single-shelf-like unit (What? as opposed to two shelf-like-units?).
In 1816 the "Divorce Corset" gained popularity (why do I feel like I should be VERY familiar with this one?) -- once again separating breasts using a piece of triangular metal. (Pre Platex - sounds as though they were taking the “lift and separate” philosophy a bit too seriously).
In 1884 Mortimer Clark patented a bra very similar to today's sports bras. And in 1893 Marie Tucek patented the first bra (known as the “Breast Supporter”) that closely resembled today's bras -- with over the shoulder straps, separate pouches for each breast, and a hook n’eye closure.
The 1900’s brought, creams, lotions, tonics and more (including a toilet-plunger looking device) to enhance your bosom. And in 1907 American Vogue created a rigid “no-cups” bra, which was to be worn over one’s corset. Quite a fetching look. As well, the first “breast” was bared on film early in the 1900’s which spawned the porn industry. (They were seriously breast busy at the turn of the century).
By 1913/14 Mary Phelps Jacob, a New York Socialite, had created and patented her “Brassier” (which is derived from the old French word for ‘upper arm’) and flattened rather than supported the breasts. Her Brassier consisted of a couple of handkerchiefs, some ribbon and cord. This invention was light weight, soft and separated the breasts naturally. Mary sold the patent on this design to Mr. Warner (of Warner Brothers Corset Company) for a mere $1500.00. And wa-la, the “Bra” was here, and here to stay.
World War I dealt the corset industry a fatal blow when the U.S. War Industries Board called on women to stop buying corsets in 1917, freeing up some 28,000 tons of metal (I don’t even know what to say about this, except ouch). So, the exit of the corset was the beginning of the Bra Industry.
In 1928, a Russian immigrant named Ida Rosenthal founded Maidenform. Ida was responsible for grouping women into bust-size categories – cup sizes (see, it really was a woman and not a man as we always thought).
And then (1941-43) came “Jane Russell”, whose film “the Outlaw” was banned because the bra designed by Howard Hughes (and his team of aeronautical engineers) was a bit too forthcoming (pardon the pun) for movie censors of the day. However, by 1949 EVERYONE wanted Jane’s, bullet-busted figure and Maidenform created the bullet-bra to appease the masses (again, no pun intended). Before they were done, over 90 million of these bras were sold. Therefore, the 1950’s became the decade of the breast and the “sweater girl” look which was epitomized by Monroe, Mansfield and Bardot bringing the introduction of the continuous circular stitching and the ‘whirlpool bra’ for the pointed cone look that was the height of fashion.
Bullet Bra
With the 1960’s and the Women's Liberation Movement -- in combination with the fashion influence of Twiggy -- made for a bad decade for the bra. Bra burnings became more fashionable than bras themselves. However, gravity and ageing were on the side of the manufacturers and bra sales did not drop significantly.
The 70’s brought skin-tone bras which became big sellers -- and remained that way until the mid-1990's. Today the average woman owns 6 bras -- including one strapless bra and one that isn't white. (They don’t know us dancers very well do they?)
And alas, 1994 brought the WonderBra which found its place in the collective hearts of women. Over the last few years, the water bra and gel bra have found their way into our lives. As well, the Bioform bra has emerged. This puppy is quite a challenge to the conventional underwired bra. It does not contort or distort the bust, but simply shapes and supports in a flattering comfy way.
And if you have picked up a Victoria Secret or Fredericks of Hollywood catalogue lately there are more bras available with and without wires, with and without gel and stuffing (socks and hankies be gone), straps, no straps, plastic straps, wide straps and padded straps, pointed, smoothed, lace, satin, the minimizer (right like that ever really works), and the one that kills me is the “Barely There” (then why bother at all?). <giggle>
So, there you have some history. Now, lets get on with how this relates to the costume issue.
Proper “Fit” and “Shape” of the Belly Dancer’s Bra, or in Other Words;
“Zaina’s Belly Dance Bra Intervention”
Why Zaina is bra-aphobic!
I am often referred to as the “Boob Queen”. This nickname was given largely (pun) in part to my pet peeve about proper fit and look of a dance bra as well as my still ample breast size. It breaks my heart to see a dancer in a beautiful costume with sagging straps, loose cups, not enough cup, too much swing, or too much fringe and heavy rhinestones and little to hold it all up. Because our ribs and chest area are a focal point - - our energy center, it is critical to have a good fit and for the rib area to be seen – or available to view but most importantly, the lift is critical to breathing.
Many of you may have read my article about my own Breast Reduction Surgery in 2001 (my millennium gift to myself) and revised with updates for iShimmy.com. Basically, I was a woman with “an abundance of breasts”. As well gravity had seriously affected my breasts so I became “phobic” about the appearance and fit of a bra.
Zaina’s suggestions for a good fit and good look to your bras, rib cage and stomach areas:
The best look, in my humble, yet boobly (kind of like stately) experienced opinion, is the uplifted round globe look. Whether you have made your bra from scratch, or purchased it from a costumer your breasts should be made to look round in shape and lifted up off your ribs. How does one achieve this look?
First, two sets of straps are better than one. This is essential, in order to obtain the “globe” or “melon” look as well as for weight distribution. Keep in mind beads, rhinestones and glass/beaded fringe is heavy, so added to the weight of breasts – this weight distribution is crucial. Use a halter strap set and shoulder strap set.
The Halter Strap gently pulls your breasts “in” towards the middle (not the lift and separate look for sure) as well as add some lift to the “bosom”.
The Shoulder Straps add even better lift as well as providing stress relief to the neck (from that halter strap). You will want to connect the shoulder and halter straps from the same spot on the front of the bra – the look and fit is much better this way (a good guide is to follow the line down from your ear to the top of the bra and then one inch to the outside of that line). It is very important to bring the shoulder straps to the “mid-section” of the back connecting strap of the bra. I usually place mine approximately 3 inches apart. This keeps your shoulder straps from sliding off your shoulders while dancing/moving.
Lift – Ribs. Please, make sure you heft them babies up. Get’em up off your ribs. This is so very important. Our ribs are an essential part of our dance. I cannot express this enough. Your upper body movements (chest circles, lifts, pops, locks, rolls and the top of your belly roll) are done while keeping your ribs lifted - - not your shoulders. It is an outstanding thing (pun) to be able to see ribs included in these movements. Keep in mind that when we lift our ribs, we also lift our spirits – don’t cover this area so completely, with every costume you make. So, once you have your straps on your bra (both sets) begin the adjustments. Of course we don’t want to see you with an extra set of chin boobs (this is equally as bad as the belly balls), but, do consider whether you have lifted yourself to your full potential.
Fringe. The misconception for dancers who may have a thicker waist or midsection than they would like is to add MORE FRINGE to the bottom of their bra, covering as much of their ribs and tummy as possible. The thought is to cover and hide the area (why not use a tummy cover for coverage purposes instead?). This type of coverage really does not work, but rather gives the appearance of MORE rather than LESS. Try instead to bring the focus to the middle of the bra with your fringe, such as a “V” shape, or a long section of fringe (no more than 8 to 10 inches depending on your height/length) hanging directly from the center of your bra and only a few inches at most wide. It makes no sense to ADD “stuff” in order to make something appear SMALLER in size. And, if your bosoms are large - - your neck and shoulders will thank me for this change in “more” concept. Often, no fringe at all will achieve the LESS there look. Try it - - you will be surprised.
How to make an “A” into a “C” If your hips are 36 or larger, yet you have an “A” cup, and you feel as though you would like to look more proportional, you may want to consider purchasing a “B” or “C” cup bra anyway. You can sew into the outside and bottom of the inside of each cup those shoulder pads you have been taking out of all your dresses and jackets over the years (since they were popular in the 80’s). These work the best as the shape is easy to work with. It is important to put them on the outside (armpit side) edge to push your breasts towards the center – for the “Melon” look as well as the bottom of the cup – to lift rather than the top side. Once you have sewn in the pads it is a good idea to hand sew a piece of felt, cotton, etc. directly over the top of the pads in the shape of the cup, so the padding doesn’t move about and so it is not seen by you each time you put on your costume (this is an irritant that is not needed when you are getting ready for a performance – you know, the “Oh My Gosh I had to stuff again” thought). Also, one of those pads could come undone while performing and poke outside the cup of your bra.
Proper Tilt This is another pet peeve. Personally, I don’t like to see a gorgeous costume with the bra cut straight across the breasts, especially if it is a larger size cup as it digs into the flesh of the dancer’s breasts. The smaller cups can get away with this look, but it is not flattering if you are well endowed. The top edge of the cup will press into the breast and takes away the “melon” effect. The better look is what I call the “Eyes Have It Tilt”. This is basically center down and sides slightly up which gives an “angle” center to top – prettier and more elegant in style. If you have purchased a bra that is “straight” across, in can be fixed. You will first release the center front of the bra. You will then move the shoulder and halter straps and tilt the cups with the outside up and center down. Now, not all pre-made costumes are that simple. It may require a tuck at the armpit and a few other nips here and there to fix but if you love that costume it will be worth it.
“No-No’s” and “Uh Oh’s”:
* For the ample bosomed dancer: Spiral designs on the cup of your bra 
- this will either mesmerize your audience or send them to the closest facility to hurl from the roller coaster like effects of the swirling action of two breasts. (Okay, now the funny thing about this warning is that I did in fact, purchase a bra that does just this – which we affectionately refer to as “Mesmerizing Boobla”. I just didn’t notice that there were actually spirals on the bra. Kim Sakkara (http://www.kimsakkara.com)/quickly made some changes to divert a bit from the hallucinogenic properties of this bra.)
* Ample bosoms: Cleavage cut to “there”. Make sure you have good support in the center of your bra. As well, don’t you just despise those bras for “full figured” women that are often made to cover from neck to belly button. I still swear by Fredericks as you can purchase many sizes, colors and styles through their catalog department or order from your closest store.
* Do not stuff your bra with socks. First of all, “Yuk”, and second, what if one of those socks slips outside your bra? Eeeek!
* Nipples. I almost feel like I shouldn’t have to say this, but I have seen with my own eyes the effects of “thinking” they were safely tucked away, and then the audience discovering that they weren’t. DANCE IN YOUR COSTUME BEFORE YOU WEAR IT IN PUBLIC. Make sure you are not going to spill over the top. One trick I have used is to run a “seam” of eyelash glue along the edge of my bra - - while this is not going to hold back the flood if the gates pop open, it will provide a little bit of staying power. You can also add an extra appliqué or strip of stretch sequins over the top edge of your bra to provide more coverage. This is far better than “spillage”.
Now, just for fun, I thought you might be interested in some of the famous nicknames for breasts and bras. The intent is not to offend, but merely to have a good laugh. As a woman who has suffered through the jokes and stares of men and glares of women, if I hadn’t kept a sense of humor about it all, I’d be in an anal retentive heap in the corner. If you are offended by any of this – Get Over It! After all, they are just BOOBS!
No matter what you call them: Bazzookas, Boobs, Boobies, Bosoms (which should be used for literary references), Breastsssssssesses, Chest, Chi Chi’s, Hootas/Hooters, Jugs, Knockers, Gagas, Gazongas, Melons (Water, Casaba, Canteloupe, Honey Dews), Rack, Sling, Tatas, Teats, Tits, Titties or Ya-Ya’s; or what you house or don’t house them in: Wonderbra, Minimizer (sure, like my Tripple D’s ever looked minimal), Training Bra (what in heck do they train for?), Barely There (as opposed to what? – Alotta there?), Cross Your Heart (and hope to what?), Padded/Push Up, Water Bra (slosh slosh), Bullet Bra (you could put someone’s eye out with those), Halter, Miracle, Sports, Brasier, Bra, Pasties, Titsling or “Over The Shoulder Boulder Holder”, remember, they are after all, just a little percentage of our over all anatomy (now don’t get hung up (pun) trying to figure out what YOUR percentage is).
I will leave you with this: What did one saggy boob say to the other saggy boob? If we don't get some support soon, people are going to think we're nuts!
Here are a couple of websites to visit:
http://www.thebreastsite.com/bras/belly-dance-bras.aspx
http://www.oprah.com/tows/pastshows/200505/tows_past_20050520.jhtml
For Belly Dance Bras Specific, try these wonderful costumers:
http://www.davina.us/publications/eb1.html Dawn’s excellent book “Embellished Bras” will help you fit and construct the most exquisite bra. 
http://www.designsbyjanie.com/Teaching%20Page.html Janie’s workshop “Boobology 101” is an excellent way to go if you want to get your group together for a fun, fulfilling (pun, pun, pun), and exciting workshop.
Enjoy my friends and remember what Mae West said:
It takes two to get one in trouble. . . .
It isn't what I do, but how I do it. It isn't what I say, but how I say it, and how I look when I do it and say it. . . . .