Egypt, Turkey and Beyond * Installment 7
Istanbul, Turkey * Arrival and The Bizarre Bazaar
Shopping Experience #1

Turkey was exciting, exhilarating and completely exhausting.  I however found the people were not as friendly in Istanbul as we had experienced in Egypt and the complications of the trip up to this point, I think had finally worn on both Oberon and me.  Our energy level waning, and my patience level seemingly maxed out, I still tried to go into this part of the trip with good spirits and excited for the upcoming experience, but we weren’t off to a good start. . . 

We had finished our first week in Cairo and with bags repacked, the larger ones to await our return at the Victoria Hotel (a hotel touted to us as historic which seemed to just mean old and dirty and I would never consider staying there again).  As we loaded up to head to the airport, we were given a departing dose of frustration over those larger bags being loaded – some of which were being unceremoniously tossed on top of the bus with no tie downs (of course I wondered if they would even be there when we got back and if that glass shisha would survive all the tossing about or worse even – a trip “overboard” before it even made it to the other hotel).  

We had been told repeatedly that we would only be allowed a small carry on bag to and from Istanbul.  In some ways it made sense, but not if we were going to be shopping and shopping was promised. Prior to departing on the trip I had asked how we were to get our purchases in Turkey back to Cairo with just that bag.  Since a trip to a costumer had been promised I naturally was concerned about having enough room for those potential purchases as well as trinkets.  No matter, the answer was “no checked bags” – final.  With this planted firmly in my brain I packed only the essentials and had a bit over half a suitcase ready for shopping.  This “rule” led to an ugly mess when we left Istanbul – but you will have to read that later. (Note Number 11:  Bring Landry soap so you can wash out some of your clothes – unless you are willing to just stand them in the corner of your room nightly).

The Walls of Constantinople 

Our arrival in Istanbul was pretty smooth, acquiring our visas and meeting our guide quickly then on to our hotel (Lamartine) which was only a few blocks from Taksim Square.  The ride to the hotel was spectacular as our guide explained along the way where we were and what we were seeing – the remains of great walls surrounding the city my favorite along the way. 

Here are some historical facts about the walls:

The Byzantine Emperor Theodosius II (408-450) expanded the area of his imperial capital of Constantinople by building these great land walls farther out into the country. When finished, the Theodosian Walls were about four miles long.  Through repairs, these walls defended the city quite well until the late 19th century.

The amazing walls were breached on only two occasions; 1204 - the armies of the Fourth Crusade; 1453 - a thousand years after they were built, by a cannon of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror, after which Constantinople became Istanbul.

Their most destructive hit however was when a disastrous earthquake toppled parts of the walls in 1894.

We were into our hotel early enough that we could regroup, unpack what little we brought, run across the street to the small grocer for water and then get ready for the first club show and dinner – The Orient House for the advertised, “Turkish Style Oriental and Folk Dance”.  (See Section 3 - Clubs section)

As we found our way around, we were delighted to meet the merchant who owned the shop next to the hotel.  He shared his stories of snow skiing on our very own Mt. Hood in Oregon, and just chattered on about how beautiful Oregon and Washington are.  A fast friend - - it was nice to sit with him and his friends periodically, have tea and talk about our countries and experiences.  Bonus.  Later, we loaded the bus and off we went to the first show.

Our bus driver actually pushed a car out of the way – with our bus as he worked his way down these small streets.  Can you imagine trying to get away with that here?

After dinner and the show, as we were heading back to the hotel we were given the schedule for the next few days - but what was blatantly missing from the verbal listing was “Hagia Sophia” - - and which was one of two main sites I came to see and since it was on our itinerary, I asked “when will we see Sophia”?  The quick response was “it isn’t on the schedule”.  What?  This caused a lot of looking around the bus at each other and even quicker “exasperated” comments from Oberon and I that we would simply get another guide or a taxi or someone else to help us because we were GOING TO SOPHIA - - we just realized it would probably be on our own.  And so – another frustrating slap in the face. 

By the next morning as we again loaded onto the bus for the day’s events, we discovered Sophia was back on the schedule, much to everyone’s delight – and no regret’s on either my or Oberon’s part for speaking up the evening before.  But then perhaps it was just an oversight on the guide’s part J.

So, Point to Point, here are my thoughts to the sites, and experiences of the next few days (not necessarily in order).  

Costumer:  Before telling you about our wonderful day at the Grand Bazaar, (because it is a wonderful story in itself), I will tell you of our first stop at the promised costumer which was not what I had imagined.  Disappointment doesn’t begin to cover the feeling.  I am a bit particular about my costuming; professional, elegant, classy and of course something made for or at least that can be altered to fit someone of my height (close to 6’ tall).  I was excited and hopeful as we approached the shop, where we were led down into a damp feeling, musky/mold smelling basement.  The hype about the costumer had built a certain excitement - - but this was NOT what I had in mind – I literally could not believe what I was seeing.  Oberon, and I turned and hi-tailed it right back up the stairs and out, as fast as our feet could carry us up the rickety old stairs, both of us looking at each other in amazement.  Perhaps someone less particular may have found something there, but I wasn’t even up for digging around and attempting a look.  Where was Bella, I thought?  Where were those wonderful shops full of costumes I had heard so much about? Please tell me I didn’t come all the way to Turkey for a bargain basement assortment of puzzle piece costumes.  Why in the world was “THIS” the choice for us?  (Note 12:  a few “good” costumers in Istanbul):  I did in fact leave Turkey without even one costume or costume piece and am still disgruntled that a third rate costume shop was the best that could be offered to us. 

Outside of the Grand Bazaar

But, all was not lost - on to the real shopping experience.

The Grand Bazaar (Kapali Karsi):  What an amazing place.  There is so much to see in this old covered market.  It is one of the largest of its kind in the world with about 60 streets and over 5,000 shops.  When you hear the words, “shop till you drop” it is certainly said with this bazaar in mind. 

With its maize of streets, glorious domes, mosques, wonderful fountains and multiple restaurants, the Grand Bazaar has been a critical trading site since the mid 1400’s.  After an earthquake in 1894 there was a major restoration done to the buildings and to have the opportunity to see it – in the “brick” so-to-speak was wonderful. 

I was absolutely fascinated by the way in which the small shops and cafes fit themselves into the unique design of the buildings.  I was turned around, confused, and often just blatantly lost within its walls, and I mean that in more ways than the obvious.  I found myself lost in the textures, colors, and sounds surrounding us - - literally there is so much color and activity that staying on your feet is difficult.  Hard to know which way to turn and time just flew by.

At one corner, I found my feet rooted to the floor as I stood in front of a jewelry store that specialized in “amber”.  I had never seen anything like it and imagine I may never again, unless of course I go back some day for another look-see, touchy feely experience of this rich honey colored stone.  Necklaces, rings, bracelets, and just the stones themselves, some as big as baseballs, just beckoned the passerby in through the doors – if, of course, you make it past the windows. 

Throughout the Bazaar you see hanging lanterns, walls of mother-of-pearl mirrors and coffee sets, watches, knock off purses/handbags/luggage, scarves, textiles, just no way to describe how much was there.  And I will give you just a little warning – because there is so much it is truly difficult to know what to pick, what to buy, because you will find yourself wanting a little bit (or a lot) of it all.  You will be stopped as you walk by merchants, some quite aggressive, others just waiting for you to stroll into their closet store, and the haggling begins.  So, my dancer friends, hone those bartering skills and may the best man or woman win.  I think that half the fun is feeling like no matter what you spent, you got your deal - - it was the price you were willing to pay after a few minutes of “negotiations”.  It makes no difference if another person in the group feels they got a better deal, what matters is the fun of the moment.  You will remember it always.   

Once we were done shopping, bags and hard earned wares in hand, we sat at a little café’ watching the crowds of shoppers and merchants pass by relishing in that romantic atmosphere that is old Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. 

My haul?  A beautiful Mother-of-Pearl inlayed Turkish coffee set, Turkish tea glasses, a tapestry purse with “camels” on it, and lots of small bracelets, scarves and trinkets for family and friends – oh AND coffeeeeeee. 

Next, The Spice Market and Turkey's Wild Ride, or is that the Wild Ride of the Turkey?