Egypt, Turkey and Beyond * Installment 10
Istanbul, Turkey * The Spell of Topkapi and the Underground
Cistern
The Palace Entrance
Topkapi Palace:
She sits on top of a hill, in a small peninsula, with the Sea of Marmara
to the south, the Golden Horn to the north, and the Bosphorus strait to the
northeast. The pictures of Oberon
and I here were taken on a lovely balcony, overlooking the Bosphorus - - a
memory never to be forgotten.
faint smile from him!
It is hard to know where to start with our visit to the Palace except to say that Oberon was adamant that she was ready to move in and never leave – even though the palace has not had “residents” in over 160 years. For me this was like fairytale land. As you enter you are treated to lush grounds, extravagant flowers including immense rose gardens, decorative fountains, tree lined pathways (see my photo of these fascinating trees, some that are 350 years old), pavilions, gilded gazibos, tiles beyond your wildest imaginings, and even an olive grove - - a palace fit for any King or as Oberon and I decided, us Queenly feelin girls. Even the Harem had a separate garden, known as the “Gateway of Heaven”.
Palace Trees come in all shapes
A side note about the trees from information on site: The significance the trees play in local lore is very interesting. It is said when a son was born to the Sultan, a “Plane” tree was planted and when a son died, a Cypress tree set near the grave. The Cypress was planted because its aroma would mask the decaying occurring in said grave. Poplar trees were planted when a woman learned she was to have a child. Some trees (the older Plane trees) were affected by a fungus, which hollowed out the centers, now providing unique sculpture like monuments to the past.
Cats, Kittens, and More Cats
The only thing that may outnumber the trees, are the “kitties”
– the little feline beasties are everywhere, much to our joy. Anyone that knows Oberon knows she is a
staunch kitty lover and between her me and the rest of the group - - well there
were plenty to go around. They are
on the grounds, in the buildings, lounging, begging and acting like the true
royalty of the palace. There was a
near international incident in fact when a little boy was scene by Oberon to be
kicking in the direction of a darling feline. With his parents standing by, there was our fierce one,
wagging her finger at the boy and expressing to his parents his bad behavior to
be “completely” unacceptable - all while she cradled little royal kitty in her
arms.
Special sights and artifacts:
The Spoonmaker’s Diamond! I had seen the Hope Diamond at the Smithsonian in 1969 and
never thought to see another Diamond that would compare in the “awe”
factor. This 86 karat stone set in
silver and surrounded by 49 smaller “perfect” diamonds is the “Holy Diamonds
Batman” of Diamonds. The history
behind it is just as marvelous. It
had passed the hands of Napolean’s Mother, who sold it to save her son from
exile. Our Saqra stood this side
of the window - - nearly immoveable she is so in love with it. (grin – how could anyone not be?)
Topkapi Dagger!
Mind blowing and world famous; a gift to the Persian King Nadir
Shah. However with the killing of
the Shah in an uprising, the dagger was returned to the Istanbul treasury. 35 centimeters long, featuring three
VERY LARGE EMERALDS (my favorite stone) inlaid in the handle, with an even
bigger emerald on top.
Thrones, candelabras, gold trimmed tiles, ornate doors and
windows, reflecting pools and fountains, bronze statues and fireplaces, texture
laden divans, carriages, gilded mirrors and bed frames, artwork that could make
you weep with the beauty of it.
On the grounds is the Harem (which is like a palace that
could stand alone in its immensity – as an example, there are 259 rooms and
even 4 kitchens, its own hospital and more), a circumcision room, immense
kitchens, calligraphy room, libraries, barracks of the eunichs, baths,
pavilions and more. You will want
to see the wardrobe hall, all of the jewelry displayed, yes, I could go on and
on.
The museums and sites on the grounds are so amazing and immense it would really take a good week to see it all and really absorb what is there. One morning is simply not enough.
The view from Palace Balcony
looking out onto the Bosphorus
When you leave the palace it is with a sense of regret
(that you must leave because they simply will not let you move in) and a
feeling deep somewhere in your heart at the history contained inside as well as
outside her walls.
The Underground Cistern: It is said there are hundreds of underground cisterns hidden
underneath streets throughout Istanbul.
With me being claustrophobic, the thought of stepping down off of a busy
street and into a giant hole beneath the city was un-nerving to say the least.
Our guide was so sweet as we entered the Cistern. He said, “now Zaina, if you become frightened, I can quickly
take you right back out – just let me know”. I am happy to say, scared didn’t come because as we entered
the cistern, and made our way down the stairs, the smell reminded me of
something familiar and comforting; the olfactory memory of many trips through
Disneyland’s “Pirates of the Caribbean” assailed my nostrils, and wound its way
deep into my memory’s senses. So,
I was nothing but comfortable as we made our way through this incredible
environment – admittedly with the sound of Yo Ho in the back of my mind. The walkways over just about 18 inches
or so of fish and coin filled water were slick, but easily maneuvered. Our guide pointed out numerous points
throughout the cistern, which are highlighted by the well placed lighting
system – so fascinating.
in the back of the Cistern
The cistern may have been built just after 550 A.D. and was
known as the Basilica Cistern during the Roman period. After the conquest by
the Ottoman Turks, the Cistern was all but forgotten – no one new it existed
and it is told it was accidentally re-discovered in 1545 and used simply to
water the gardens of Topkapi Palace – which is a mere hop, skip and jump away
from the Cistern. At approximately
143 meters long by 65 meters wide, it contains twelve rows of 28 marble columns
each (336 all together) supporting the roof, with a potential capacity if
filled of eight thousand cubic meters of water - - well, just the thought of
where we were standing gave me goose bumps. The Basilica Cistern was restored
in 1980 and opened to the public for tours - - and has become one of the “don’t want to miss” tourist
stops in Istanbul.
Looking towards the front
If you go, you must make sure to walk all the way to the
back of the cistern where two large Medusa head’s reside. One is upside down and the other is tilted
to the side, appearing to be column bases. No one seems to know the why or when of their
placement. But they are quite
fascinating – and tourists seemed to revel in the good luck that is to come
from leaning out from the safety of the walkway to touch them.
Bathed in hues of red, orange and gold