Egypt, Turkey and Beyond * Installment 11
Istanbul, Turkey * The Night Clubs, Dancers and our Interesting Departure
(aka:  Can you Say Chest-Butting?)

The Orient House: 

The folk-dancing at this show was truly fabulous. I was able to get short video snippets that I just cherish – love to watch that fancy footwork and drops those guys and gals did.  I loved these groups, the costume changes, along with the band made for an exciting show - very upbeat.  The host engaged the entire room – in segments as little flags were posted on tables depicting our home countries.  As he worked through county anthems and songs depicting our countries the room enjoyed representing who they are.  

I was so looking forward to the Turkish Cabaret style of dancing I have seen so often on videos, but, what we saw and heard from the Oriental Dancers was actually more Egyptian in movement and music – their own distinct cabaret style was not even recognizable.  The show was fun and exciting, but as well disappointing with regards to the cabaret segment.  Knowing the tipping process for the dancers might be on the outrageous side, I was not surprised as one of the dancers moved towards a table of “businessmen”, only to be groped and pawed as money was literally shoved deep into her costume – with lingering hands.  As I looked around the table, seeing my fellow dancers covering their eyes, and making little “eek” sounds, it was with the realization that I was not the only one cringing at such a blatant grope fest, even though it did make me chuckle a little.

There was a segment in the evening where the host encouraged people from the audience to come up and “try” to belly dance.  So there we sat, a table full of dancers - - and with just a little encouragement one of our own took to the stage.  Lots and lots of fun to watch Sandy Bell outshine the rest of the would be dancers.

 

Kervansaray Nightclub: 

Much like the first evening’s event we were hopeful that we would get to see that uniquely wonderful Turkish Cabaret style we had heard so much about.  And once again we saw Egyptian style, with the exception of a darling girl who danced what appeared to be more American Cabaret with silver Isis Wings.  She actually looked to be straight out of the San Francisco Bay area – she was a little dynamo and my favorite dancer of those we saw in these clubs.  The house dancer (the dancer announced as “the best dancer in Istanbul”) seemed to spend much of the time she was on stage in an irritated state, acting as though we were “bothering her”.  She really didn’t seem to be at all happy to be on stage – and I don’t think she smiled at all during her performance.  Happily though, we were once again treated to folkloric dance – that just stole the evening.  Men tossing daggers is always an attention getter – and with such a wonderful sense of humor.  The food was good, the group more relaxed than the first night – just much more fun.

Oberon and I opted to spend the last evening in Istanbul checking out the local stores and scenery.  We walked quite a few blocks, just taking in the sites, sounds and people of this charming city.  We wandered into a quaint sidewalk café, with great food - which we ate just inches from the street and just thoroughly enjoyed the relaxed, laid back evening in each other’s company.  What a treat this was.

       My Favorite Dancer in Turkey!
 

Our Departure from Istanbul and the Chest Butting Airline Manager (or Zaina’s Near International Incident):  

We loaded onto our bus and headed to the airport with our carry on bags – most stuffed to the max, but we thought we were still within airline restrictions, and keeping in mind they had to be “remember” - we were told we could not check them.  As we stood in line we noticed the airline attendants at the counter were “checking in” – “carry-on” bags (oh no I thought) – we were told NOT to do this.  I had watched our TO check-in, and walk away with her carry on bag to stand around the corner.  So in those few minutes, leading up to “the incident” while trying to figure out why she walked away from us with her bags, and what we were supposed to do as ours were being “taken to check in” well, the anxious feeling grew as did the beginnings of my fury.  Further watching another woman from our group begin crying in the next line as they were taking her carry on bag - - and no assistance from our group organizer, well - - the level of angst was palpable.  This before Oberon and I even stepped up to the desk agent.   

To make a long story short – for everyone’s sake, here are the bullets:

So, as the airline agents began checking our carry-on bags, I asked why pointing out mine was Egypt Air size/weight for carry-on; agent got the manager; manager became rude to my challenge of “we are within regulation”; he stepped too close; raised his voice (as he looked up at me from his vertically challenged (VC) position) so loud and aggressively he actually was spitting on me; I refused to step back and raised my voice to match his (of course from my non-vertically challenged position); he stepped in again, chest to chest (mine, clearly higher) and so it seemed “it was on”.  Why was I arguing to keep my bag?  Remember, what we were told before leaving the US, and before leaving Cairo for Istanbul - - do not check your bags.   (What a position to be put in)

• Yes, I did in fact in those moments, wonder what the inside of a Turkish jail was going to look like.
• Yes, I did in fact wonder why our TO managed to walk away from the counter with her bags, leaving her group to fend for themselves.
• Yes, I did wonder why, when she saw we were having trouble, she did not come back to help, but later chose to blame me for the entire incident.
• Yes, you bet I said it was not my fault, and that they had already begun taking bags before I stepped up to the counter.
• Yes, the little manager tried to apologize later.  I simply gestured for him to leave me alone I was not interested in his comments.
• Yes, they let me board the plane.

And so, this would be considered Zaina’s Great Donkey Incident – because clearly there was a jack as-donkey and an unconcerned guide involved in this scenario too.

Sunset in Istanbul
  Blue Mosque

And so, back in Cairo, we waited to collect our “checked” bags and then were off to the hotel my nightmares are now made of, The Victoria, complete with large roaches, various other bugs I was unfamiliar with, and a “lift” not an “elevator” half the size of my coat closet at home.  So, don’t panic here - - it is all an experience right?  I should find the humor – and admittedly, I’m close after a year and a half.  And admittedly, I suppose my perception of how you treat people who have paid you, is different than a few others.

But on to the hotel:  Now, I say again, ZAINA IS CLAUSTROPHIC.  And ZAINA has difficulty with tight spaces.  Can we get a room perhaps on the ground floor? Nope, Zaina walked 4 flights of stairs to get to the third floor (don’t ask, I never figured that out).  Here is where I say I owe my best friend a huge debt of gratitude and then some because she retrieved all of our waiting luggage from the fourth floor to bring it to our room on the third – one to two pieces at a time in that little cramped lift (oh yeah, luckily we were told “when it feels like the lift has stopped, you will need to open the door rather quickly or the lights in the lift will go out and you will think it is broken”).  Yeah - - that just meant there was no way I was getting in the thing – go ahead, call me chicken sh...  None-the-less, Oberon graciously retrieved, her bags, and mine and we then began the process of re-packing.  Not however after the mini-meltdown over the room.  I can picture me hopping about the room, as I discovered each issue; a) our beds with a simple sheet over a mattress with no pad between and the residue of who knew what, b) what is that empty space over the bathroom?  The Freddie Kruger looking slatted space – do they put the hidden cameras there? c) did they forget to clean out the bathtub or is that perma-dirt in the bottom?  d) do they really make bathroom towels in “puce” and why do they feel like sandpaper (no exaggeration) and e) do you think the chair is comfortable enough for sleeping in - OMG where did I put the bug spray – what is that thing moving in the corner?  Yeah – it was like that!

We opted to stay at the hotel rather than go to dinner with some of the group in order to make sure we had everything repacked and rearranged for the 3:30 am departure the next morning. 

So, the next morning we were off on our way to Aswan albeit, after this hotel, it was with trepidation of what we might be facing with a cruise ship.  Full body shudder and with nothing to eat since the morning we left Istanbul (the day before) except the power bars we brought with us - - (I just couldn’t do the breakfast offered at the Victoria – must have been the open bowel of jelly that had flies running all over it – my stomach rebelled and went into “can’t eat mode”).  It was too early to eat at the airport so another power bar on the plane. 

Next:  Aswan, our ship and what turned out to be THE BEST PART OF THE ENTIRE TRIP - NEXT.

     Egypt and Beyond * Installment 12
        The Nile River Cruise and Temples and Events Along the Way;
            Beauty, Mystery, Adventure