Egypt and Beyond
Installment 2
The Great Pyramids of Giza, The Sphinx,
Spank Me and Bring on the Water - Day Three
As Written by:  Zaina Hart

Zaina and Her First Camel

This third day is still a bit of a blur and to be truthful, I am not sure of the exact order of the tour after about noon.  There was entirely too much packed into the day (I say again, check your itinerary, ask questions and be sure you want to see these monuments and sites at break neck speed). 

Basics:  Breakfast (the hotel offered buffet breakfast every morning), Pyramids, Sphinx, Jewelry Store, Papyrus shop/museum, Citadel of Salah el Din and the Mohammed Ali Mosque, Old House, The Jewelry and Papyrus shop to pick up our wears, and somewhere in the afternoon lunch time the Felfela Garden Restaurant and back to the Jewelry Store and Papyrus shop once again to pick up our orders, Egyptian Museum, and once again, back to the Jewelry Store and papyrus shop (this is what happens when you try to rush women who are shopping).  Or something like that.  Way too much in one day – because you don’t want to rush any of this – really.

Note 5:  What you need to know is to never, and I mean NEVER leave your hotel without a large bottle of water.  I have countless pictures in which you will see me with a bottle of water in my hand or in my travel bag.  You can’t get enough of it.  You can purchase by the case from a local market – just make sure to check that your lids are secure – with teeth that break when you initially twist off the cap.  So, I say again, water is your best friend.  If you wait to drink water until your body is telling you “I’m thirsty”, then you are probably already dehydrated.  Coffee, soda, juice, etc. is NOT a replacement for the good stuff.  Get it, buy it, have it close, drink it. JUST DO IT.  You will be thankful you did.

            Khufu in All Its Glory

And so it had begun:

Our tour bus picked us up in the morning, security guard and tour guide on board.  Note 2:  We had been warned to cover our heads PERIOD.  Not with hats, but with scarves, hijab.  As we loaded onto the bus however, there was our assigned tour guide with no head covering.  Oh, I see we said after a short time, she explained she is Coptic Christian and refuses to cover up unless in a Mosque or Church.  Hmmmmmm.  I thought this curious as we were told there simply was no other way; cover or don’t go.  Wear long sleeves, long skirts, and absolutely no pants were allowed.

So, off we went, driving approximately one mile, up past the famed Mena House where the Ahlan Wa Sahlan Festival was going to be held starting the very next day. Through the gates we went, and there right in front of our eyes – larger than words can really express was Khufu the largest of the pyramids on this site. I was so busy looking at this colossus I had not even noticed we had parked.  All I could think was that we were actually going to be standing in front of Khufu in minutes and I had to fight myself not to run up the aisle and out the door of the bus. 

But we were quickly brought back to reality with the explanation from our guide that we would be given time to see and take pictures at each stop through the grounds, after each explanation of what we were seeing.  We were to stay in a group and with our armed security guard.  No running up to the front of Khufu for pictures or to sit for a few moments and really soak in where we were.  Noooooo, we must stay with the group, don’t lag, don’t stop, don’t talk to anyone, or else, or else! But “why don’t I get to sit on one of those ginormous blocks for a few minutes and take it all in? Can’t I have some – more than just a few minutes – I mean REALLY!?”  So while my head is reeling from “you can’t”, as we are walking from our tour bus, we were becoming surrounded by merchants – with postcards, head scarves (remember – we were all covered already), etc.  They are talking fast, putting things on you and in your hands and you really do need to be quick to say no (La’) and be clear you are not interested so that you can make your way with the guide (who did nothing to stop this).  In the frenzy, and before we knew it, we were past Khufu and on to the next smaller pyramid.

Oberon and Her Darling Kissing Camel

So, in frustration we joined the group.  It was about this time the most darling of camels and camel riders walked up.  When the camel’s rider said to the camel “give me a kiss – and the camel did in fact do just that” Oberon was quick to ask for a picture.  How could you not?  We were once again being ushered away while being told NOT to do that again - you must keep up, there is time later for pictures – he will make you pay.  Oberon said “But I want the picture and am happy to pay the tip.  This is how he feeds this camel and look how happy they both are”.  But, we were given strong reprimands with the insistence again that we couldn’t keep stopping.  Note 6:  Remember when I suggested checking the itinerary before you go?  This is why – rushing to get you in and back out to the next site without really getting to take it in, was just so disappointing.  My Goddess I thought, these are the pyramids WHY ON EARTH ARE WE BEING RUSHED AROUND this way and why is anyone mad because we wanted to take a our ten thousand dollar picture (price of the trip in the end)? 

So, from point to point at the grand park we went. 

There was an opportunity for us to enter into one of the smaller pyramids, go into the various chambers within.  Because of my claustrophobia, I didn’t consider this for even a minute, and when the few in our group who did want to go in – came back out, I was grateful I had not attempted it.  One of the girls told me that once she in - with the heat, and humidity from other bodies and everyone sweating, there is a feeling of extreme weight.  She said it was as though she could feel the weight of the pyramid “on her”.  And they had people “back in”, down the “pathway” so that if there was a problem, people coming out and going in were facing the same direction.  Eeeeeek.  But, she said she was very glad she went it because the sites inside were FABULOUS. 

From here we were herded back to the bus – “but, but, but, wait, we want pictures in front of the big pyramid, on the big blocks” we whaled.  “Ten minutes” came the reply.  Remember when I said we were told there would be time later?  It was appearing too soon, that we were never going to get to that time. We had come so far, across continents, oceans, all this way, and we were being denied adequate time to take in one of the Seven Wonders of our World (I think everyone will agree ten minutes is simply not enough).  So, we literally ran up to the front of Khufu, took a few pictures and then high tailed it to the bus.  (DON’T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU).

Admittedly, it was sill a wonderful experience, so much so we went back on another day, but that is a story for later.

                 The Overlook onto the Backside of Khufu

When we hit a small hill with more merchants, that overlooked the backside of Khufu, providing an incredible view of pyramids and Cairo in the distance we were excited to discover we could take a short camel ride down the hill and over to the backside of the Sphinx, where we would then hook up with the tour bus.  Not everyone was as thrilled about this camel ride as I was – some opted for the air conditioned bus. But me - - yeah, I was GETTING ON THAT CAMEL (as a mad, crazy collector of camel paraphernalia).  And, it was just grand, all 15 minutes.  It is a pretty quick ride down the hill; you get a few pictures, giggle about the ride and then before you know it you are there.  The only problem with this 15 minutes is that you get no explanation – no tour guide is with you so you don’t know much about what you are seeing (the old village workers who built the pyramids had lived in, other pyramids and structures, etc.)  Note 4 again:  I believe our fee was around $5.00 each.  Make sure you carry lots of denominations of money as seldom are you given change as everyone is in a hurry to move you from one place to the next.

The Sphinx (from side, back and with Oreet)

It is amazing to think this was carved out of one solid piece of rock.  It has been shored up from the bottom with blocks to keep it more structurally sound due to age, weather, and the not so clean air.  But wow, it is incredible to behold.  There were many other travel groups walking about to get to the viewing areas so walking into the small compound/structure area felt like going through a stone walled maze and proved to be a fun experience.  While moving through this area we ran into Nadira which was a welcome treat and then, when we rounded the last corner which put us on the back side of the Sphinx, Oreet was standing and staring in awe at the nose-less monument.  What a great feeling to see friends in such a magnificent setting.

Oberon with hand atop the Sphinx and Zaina with Beloved Water Bottle

As we waited for the tour bus and our guide, we were approached by a man who wanted us to put our hand in the air, palm flat and down and he would take our photo (baksheesh coming) so it would look like our hand was resting on top of the Sphinx head – before we knew that however, the guy had grabbed one of our cameras and was snapping away, and then demanding tip, holding the camera.  So, now you can see why the word NO, LA is important to learn.  But be aware up front this is the tactic and don’t turn over the camera and for goodness sake don’t struggle with them to get it back - giggle.  And while the picture is so very touristy, it is still fun to have it.

Papyrus Shop - How it is Made

From the Sphinx we went to the jewelry shop – reputable as the jewelry is certified with the Egyptian Government symbal.  You can go in, look around to your heart’s content, pocket book’s ability and tour guide’s time frame, order your merchandise (cartouche, ec.) and then you will stop back by later in the day to pick up your order.  Regarding cartouche; your name, etc. is added by soldering the individual hieroglyphics onto the piece you choose.  A fairly simple process unless you have a very long name.  This was most definitely fun and it was COOL in the shop AND they had a nice clean ladies room (Note 7), for which we were grateful. 

It was the same with the Papyrus shop we stopped at after the jewelry shop, which we were told was one of the best “papyrus museums” in Giza and Cairo.  I am smiling as I type this because each guide for each tour will say the same thing for each shop they take their clients to.  Basically most have the same products, being made up for you, either while you wait, or for a stop back by a few short hours later.  

I couldn’t help myself – I bought cartouche for everyone in the family and three for me in various sizes and metals.  I bought other jewelry later on in the trip as well.  Nearly everyone is going to go home with cartouche, their name in script, and papyrus with their name or family name in hieroglyphics.  These are the basic tourist items and I was no different.  No matter whether they are touristy mementos or not, they most certainly are a cherished item from your great experience and every time I wear any of my jewelry from Egypt (which is nearly every day) I am asked about it.

Gayer Anderson Courtyard, James Bond Set, Birthing Chairs

We stopped for a quick lunch of Shwarma and loaded back onto the bus for the next stop which was the Guyer Anderson museum (the guide simply told us one of the oldest houses in Cairo but didn’t provide the name).  This wasn’t on our itinerary, but I am so glad we were able to visit this site.  This was an amazing adventure through time.  We entered through a peaceful garden area, and then into a small courtyard.  Gayer Anderson who was the last owner prior to the Egyptian Government was an Orientalist, physician, and British officer in the Egyptian Army.  He actually purchased two homes and then joined them together by a veranda.  Gayer was a collector of oriental furniture and artifacts and filled these homes with some incredible work.  The Egyptian government turned this site into a museum in 1937 as an example of early Ottoman architecture. Close your eyes for a moment, ignore those around you, breath deeply and begin your tour – thrilling is an understatement.  Take note of the Mashrabeya screens on the terrace and the wood patterns which spell out Islamic phrases and the Hareem – the lattice windows are amazing.  There is also a picture of Gayer Anderson (described to us only as one of the previous owners) depicted as a Sphinx statue.  I fell in love with this drawing – still not sure why.  As we continued to look in the various rooms and snoop about, we found a room full of odd chairs.  They hung from the ceiling as well as were stacked all around the small room.  I was so fascinated and after finally asking discovered this was an entire room full of birthing chairs.  And can I just say the Celebration Hall is AMAZING.  This home was the setting of the James Bond movie “The Spy Who Loved Me”.  As you walk the terraces you will see in your mind’s eye, scenes replay from the movie.  Another must see in Cairo.

Inside Gayer Anderson Museum, Zaina and Oberon

Looking from Citadel walls out onto the city of Cairo

Citadel of Salah El Din and Mohamed Ali Mosque.  As we drove onto the grounds and through the limestone walls of the Citadel, it is with reverence that we viewed one of the most highly visible landmarks of Cairo.  This structure was fortified to protect against attacks during the “Crusades” and we were told to this day it continues to house a military garrison.  The history of this structure is vast and warrants advance review so that while there you have a better understanding of where you stand.  This is again a structure that deserves no less than a half-day to see.  With its mosques and museums inside, it is sad to miss anything within or just outside these walls.  The view of Cairo from this magnificent structure is “breathtaking”.  In the 1800s when Muhammad Ali assumed power of Cairo he had the Mamluk buildings of the Citadel razed and the complex entirely rebuilt, which included work on the mosque that bears his name.  The Turkish influence is strong throughout, and the opulence and design is not missed as you walk through buildings and mosque.  Muhammed Ali’s tomb sits in the corner of the grand room of the mosque.  You may find yourself, like I did, standing in complete reverence and silence and repeating over and over in your head, wow, wow, wow.

Inside the Mosque and the tomb of Muhammed Ali

The Mosque from the outside - Grand to Be Sure

The Cairo Museum was the last stop of this first touring day and because it was last and because we stopped at the jewelry shop three times and the papyrus shop three times for more orders and pickup, and because really there was too much planned in the day, we had little over an hour to spend at this glorious museum.  Personally, I could have spent an entire day there, or even two.  We were actually being asked to leave the building while we were still trying to look at the amazing artifacts and mummy rooms (which come at an extra cost and in my opinion worth it – anyway, they come with a side benefit in that it is nice and cool in the mummy rooms – guffaw).  We went through so fast it is hard to tell you of a favorite site there; rooms of jewelry, furniture, carriages, statues, boats, just amazing, every bit of it.  You are not allowed to take cameras into the museum, so I have no photos of the inside - - sad.  But there was a darling corner bookstore across the street in which we were able to grab a few mementos from the visit. 

Then it was back to the hotel – dinner on our own, relaxing by the pool or in the garden and rest up for shopping the next day. 

Spank Me!  (What is that all about?)

So here is where my sensitive tail (pun intended) becomes interesting. And I want to approach this delicately, but get my point across to any would be skirt only wearers of the future.  Since it was made quite clear to us that we were NOT to wear pants, but rather long skirts, I did what I was told (wouldn’t Mother be proud?).  I was in fact so pre-occupied in my purchase of long frumpy skirts – following the rules of course, that I gave no thought to what would happen once I began to sweat underneath that skirt. By the end of the day, I had baseball sized, bright red, nearly blistered flesh (heat rash) between my thighs (which really are not that large) from a full day of sweating in the sometimes extreme heat.  Yeah.  I had one pair of yoga pants for classes (pack light, pack light we were told), which I supposed I could roll up to my knees to wear under my skirts.  But let me tell you, starting off on the first day of walking tours in this predicament was no picnic.  And even though I brought a pair of pants, I was afraid of being hung for wearing them.  So, for the next three/four days, I simply suffered. 

Note 8:  Perhaps other’s flesh is made of cast iron, but mine is not.  If you want to keep yours soft and delicate, and are on one of the tours requiring only long skirts, don’t leave home without a few pair of shorts “spanks” to wear underneath your skirts.  Actually, just don’t leave home without them, skirts or not.  This piece of news alone could have saved me days of misery.

So, we finished out this day with dinner in the hotel restaurant, both of us trying to remember all the amazing sites we had already seen.  We toasted (with Hibiscus Tea) our spectacular day, thankful for our beautiful surroundings, and looking forward to the next day’s adventure.

Installment 3 * The Infamous Khan al Khalili