Egypt and Beyond * Installment 3 * THE KHAN
Khan El Khalili – Infamous Throughout the World
Just Outside the Khan
Cairo, the Jewel of the Orient, the City of the Thousand Minarets, and the Melting Pot of Ancient and Modern Egyptian Civilizations!
Zaina Covered!
Day 4 began much like Day 3; breakfast and a quick meet and greet in the lobby and out the front doors to catch our bus. And as previous days we were once again required to be covered, head to toe. Today was the big SHOPPING day and both Oberon and I were so excited “again” we could barely sit in the bus and of course I had my trusty “two” bottles of water in my back pack and not much more (heh, needed a place to put the things I was going to buy).
And so we were off once again winding our way through the
hectic and busy streets of Cairo to the Khan El Khalili the shopping district
known throughout the world. I have
read multiple books that used the Khan as a backdrop so it was even more
thrilling as we made our way - - my imagination running amok to where we were
heading - the Khan with its dusty streets, humid heavy air, masses of people
and even animals – as goose bumps raised on my well covered arms.
Oberon, Just Outside of Mahmoud's Al Wikalah
Our first stop was described to us by the tour organizer as a “hidden four story building filled to the rafters with beaded, sequined, dance goodies”. While it wasn’t necessarily hidden it did in fact have lots and lots of wonderful dance items, from complete costumes to scarves, shoes, canes, candelabras – this place in the Khan El Khalili, Mahmoud’s “Al Wikalah” was said to have it all and it nearly did. Arriving in this district just in time for the Emam’s “Call to Prayer” gave a sense of calm before the shopping storm. For me, “Call to Prayer” each time we were fortunate to be close enough to hear, always brought me a sense of peace and serenity and I found once we left Cairo, I had a feeling of loss at not hearing this great gift.
Oberon - Helping to Balance Egyptian Budget
We were told good-naturedly that we would be helping to
balance the Egyptian National Budget and believe me – WE ALL TRIED OUR BEST on
that front. Sadly however, I found
not one costume to fit my very long legs and well endowed uppers. But to be truthful, with heat rash; I
wasn’t too interested in trying on much to see if alterations could be
made. (Sad yes). I did find plenty of unusual hip
scarves and other merchandise to make me happy and also scored a beautiful dress
for one of my students that she is totally thrilled with. I also found a bra and belt set for
another hard to fit student that she was just giddy over. So for me the costume shopping trip was
still very exciting. Even more
successful for Oberon, who at the end of the day had six bags full to the
brims. And with only two arms and
hands, it made for an interesting walk back to the bus. Note 8: Mahmoud’s is a stop over that every dancer must make. If you want something fitted, he has a
seamstress available to assist.
You can then come back later in your trip to pick up your “specially fitted
by an Egyptian seamstress” costume.
Zaina - Workin both sides of the Street - Tee Hee
AKA: Running back and forth trying to get to as many shops as possible
Gratefully, we were able to leave our Al Wikalah purchases at Mahmoud’s place for safe keeping while we walked about the Khan for an even bigger SHOPPING experience. We made our way out the door of Mahmoud’s and into the dusty, still somewhat quiet streets of the Khan. Items strung across streets overhead, with shops like little closets that barely two people could fit into. The smells, sites and sounds are not easily forgotten. All I need to do now is close my eyes, settle back, and think about those few hours of moving through those richly colorful streets and somehow I am there.
A Busy Day in the Khan
This is surely the place to shop for little trinkets as well
as talk to the locals and other tourists.
Barter is the key word here.
If you find something you like but not at the price you want, well then
walk on my friend. It is most
likely going to be a few doors down, but before you get there the merchant you
just left may be calling you back for another run at negotiating the
price. It is fun and exciting and
I think everyone enjoys the process.
It is all part of the experience and when you walk away with your
‘bargain’ you are all the more attached to it for your time spent
haggling. Oberon has quite the
technique – that smile and those eyes along with her gentle nature would rock
them on their heels and sometimes they would change the price before she could
ask a second time. Just too much
fun to watch and had I thought about it I could have sold tickets to the
show. Actually her kind and gentle
spirit is what the locals were bargaining for. I had to literally drag her at times out of store fronts
because merchants just wanted to listen to her talk and watch her – “the one
with the smile to make the light to the day” one even said. Yeah, next time we will have to get her
a body guard. Oh, wait, that was
me. Yes, I did in fact pull her
out of a few back alley stores where I was uncomfortable and usually to her
requests not to leave yet.
Oberon Covered
We had wanted to find the music store across the street from what we heard was a wonderful restaurant with a beautiful set of golden doors, but shopping seemed to win out over food and we never did make it back in that direction to find the music. Perhaps we hung out at the perfume shop too long, or was it the trinket store with the glass camels? Hmmmmm, how many bags CAN I carry?
Once back to Mahmoud’s with additional bags retrieved, we
headed off to the bus. Uh huh, we
didn’t head off too fast. Obei and
her six bags full (you know the nursery rhyme) as well as my own were
admittedly a bit difficult to maneuver (thank goodness I didn’t buy that
candelabra). The bus had bags and
boxes crammed in what felt like every nook and cranny and we all seemed to have
sense of a day well spent, happy for our gifts and trinkets, costumes and
fabulous experience.
Scene Set Up for the Crazy Evening Ahead:
Once back at the hotel I decided to hand wash some clothes (including delicates). Having spilled lotion on some of my clothes forced this issue early. Now, visualize here – for the story of the evening gala that follows requires said visual – I had panties draped across a chair next to the sliding glass door – sun coming through the sheer curtains would help to dry everything in no time “right”?. I suspended a few shirts from the curtain rod for this same purpose as we moved in and out of the room to take in the garden area. We had very little time to get ready for the grand Ahlan Wa Sahlan Gala opening show that evening and with bags tossed about the room, contents of suitcases strung about the beds and room, it was soon back out the door to the festival opening gala. Dina, Saroya, and Randa - - we were on our way.
Next
Installment 4 – The Ahlan Wa Sahlan Festival - The Gala Show